Turkey Part Deux

Day 10 - Pammukale
The main attraction in Pammukale is the travertines. A cliff covered in snow white calcium rock with pools that collect water so that you can go swimming in them (the calcium is supposed to be therapeutic). At the top of the cliff is the ancient ruins of Heirapolis.

My favorite mental picture of the day is of the young Muslim couple. She was wearing a head scharf and long cloak. He also was fully clothed. They were both sitting almost completely submerged in one of the pools laughing ewith each other. They deflated our stereotypes of Muslim families. She was so full of life and he was so full of love for her.

We too experienced some drama of our own in Heirapolis. When we were walking back towards the Roman road, this guy walked past us. As we went through the gate, he stopped us. Could we take his picture? That was no problem. Through hand gestures Christina realized that he wanted a picture with me. Not only did he want a picture, he felt compelled to stand really close to me , with his hand on my waist. I have not been so close to a guy in many years. Then he felt compelled to follow us around and try to talk to us although he knew no English and we knew no Turkish. We did get the words disco out of him though and got the idea that he wanted a picture with Christina too. We tried to shake him off but he was persistant. Christina also was persistant and got the get lost message across. Nothing like Turkey to make a girl feel beautiful.

Day 11
Today our sole task was to catch our bus to Selcuk (Selchook). Our ticket was bought in the usual touted manner. We had decided on Metro and were heading into the office when an older gentleman steered us into another office and company. The bus is smaller then normal with five us squeezed into the back seats that do not recline (And I was so looking forward to a nap). But at least we have a seat. In Pammukale, we were full and then they kept on loading people into the aisles. They all got off at Denzili to catch other buses but more people got on there. We have kids sitting on the floor at the front and another man standing with our attendant. Yes, even though it is a small bus, we still get our cake and tea or coffee. . . .

In Selcuk, we decided to wander around the touristy streets to look for dinner. As soon as we set foot in the street, "Hello. Come sit with us. Where you from?" We were still unsure about the properness of this so we said our customary nos. Another person piped up, "Ve are touristy. It's Kay." This group was very persistant at engaging me in conversation so that eventually my reservations broke down and I had a seat.

Three people were from Romania. One of the boys just graduated in finance and founf out that I was a math teacher. He insisted on giving me a math problem with a logarithm. I haven't done logarithms for over ten years and had no idea where to begin. The shop keeper took one look at it and answered it. Then he started testing me about Science. "Energy - is it material? Then how come it is made up of particles? How come it can't go through walls? How come . . .?" I reminded him that these are theories scientists are debating now. So he then started on literature. "Are you reading any Turkish books while you travel?" Christina and I both point at each other as I was reading Birds without Wings, a book about Turkey, and she was reading Snow, a book by a Turk. The store owner goes on to say, "You should read Orhan Pamuk." "But, but," stuttered Christina, for she was indeed reading Pamuk secertively on the buses, "I thought no one likes him here and that he is in exile." "They are racist and small minded," replied the store keeper.

The conversation was liberating. Christina told me later that in her Pamuk book she had read a line that stated, "We aren't stupid. We are just poor." The store keeper illustrated this so clearly and corrected our ethnocentrism.

Day 12
We went to small town called Tire for their weekly market. It was a day filled with bright vegetable colours and smells.

WE stumbled across a music store with hand made Turkish instruments hanging in the window. The owner invited us in and gave us tea and tried to communicate across the language barrier. He made the instruments himself and played a bit of very beautiful music for us. This will be one of my favorite Turkish memories. Sitting in a music store lined with Turkish stringed instruments, drinking tea and listening to a true Turkish craftsman.

Day 13
People and guidebooks warned us about the crowds at Epheseus but nothing could have prepared me for the reality. Everywhere on the grounds there was congestion and guides holding up numbers or water bottles. Once we sat down at an ancient meeting place and could count at least 5 different guides speaking 5 different languages. I would try to listen in to the English groups commentary but couldn't hear over the babble (Babel?).

On the way back from Epheseus, we stopped at a roadside cafe to get a drink. We went around the back to have a seat and hear, "Christina!" It was one of the girls at the carpet shop from two days before with more of her camping buddies. We sat with them and talked with them for awhile and then a few of them start to sing: "I believe in Jesus. I believe he is the son of God. I believe he died and rose again . . ." Christina and I look at each other in astomishment and then join in. They were amazed that we knew the song and asked us to teach them another. So we taught them the Fill up my Cup version of Amazing Grace. Who knew that we would be singing worship songs in Turkey with a bunch of Romanians.

Ok there is a Trout Lake campfire waiting for me so I better go join my fellow teachers. I will continue later. Just so you know, the random Romanian story is not finished yet. There is more to come.